THAT SUNNY DAY OF LAST AUGUST WE WERE FINALLY GOING TO FULFIL A DREAM THAT HAD KEPT US GOING DURING THE TIME I RECEIVED CHEMO: VISITING THE CENOTES OF YUCATÁN. WE HAD PLANNED A ROUTE THROUGH SEVERAL LARGE, OPEN, AND BEAUTIFUL CENOTES OF CHICXULUB’S ‘RING OF CENOTES’, EACH ONE MORE IMPRESSIVE THAN THE LAST. HOWEVER, THE DAY LED US DOWN A DIFFERENT PATH TO BEGIN OUR JOURNEY. AFTER PASSING THROUGH SEVERAL MAYAN VILLAGES AND VENTURING ALONG DUSTY TRACKS, WE ACCIDENTALLY STUMBLED UPON A DIFFERENT CENOTE, HIDDEN UNDERGROUND, SMALL AND SIMPLE.
There, I met “La Doña del Cenote” and her husband. The humble guardians of that place, which you could tell they regarded as sacred. Both were tiny and seemed a bit fragile, their skin weathered by the sun, with the characteristic features of the Mayan people. They greeted us with warm smiles, as if we were friends in everyday life. Everything, from the cenote to their presence, seemed modest. I admit, I was a bit disenchanted at that moment. I had no idea that this woman was about to give me an unforgettable experience.
In the heart of the cenote
Before allowing us to enter, La Doña asked us to shower, to safeguard and respect the purity of the cenote’s waters. Then, with an unexpected agility for her age, she led us through a small opening into the heart of the cenote. What happened next was even more unexpected for me.
La Doña looked at me directly, with a confidence that felt like she knew me. As if she knew everything about me, as if she even had known I would arrive on that very day. She spoke to me in a voice reminiscent of a healer, and said:
“Child, enter the water, let it embrace you. This is Mother Earth. Here, you are in her womb, as if you’ve returned to your mother’s belly. Stay here in peace. God brought you to this place, guided your path. This is where you are supposed to be now, stay as long as you need.”
As those words echoed within me, she left me alone, immersed in the peace of the cenote. It was then that I felt something break inside me—but not in a bad way. It was as if a barrier had dissolved, and suddenly, the tears began to flow. Tears that I hadn’t expected, but that released a trapped energy. Like a waterfall breaking through a dam. My sobs mingled with the tranquility of the water. And so I felt invaded by a deep sense of peace. It was as if the cenote, and La Doña through it, had facilitated a healing I didn’t even know I needed.
Healing simplicity, natural energy, vital force
When I emerged, she and her husband were quietly relaxing in their hammock, observing the surrounding nature. They had set up a small table and chairs for us to enjoy our lunch. They smiled at us humbly, as if nothing extraordinary had just happened.
Yet, for me, La Doña had been much more than a simple guardian of the cenote. She had given me a profoundly healing experience. It may sound incredible, I know that. But I don’t care for an explanation; I’m not here to dissect everything with the scalpel of logic. All I know is that she handles life’s vital energy with a masterful simplicity. Connected to nature, she was able to connect my own energy to the vital force of that hidden place. Her simple, unpretentious wisdom reminded me that life force can be found in the most modest corners and in the humblest of people. That tiny old woman proved that the simplest in life can sometimes be the most extraordinary.
